10 May, 2013

The Biscuit Factory Video

Hey guys,

Check out the link below and watch Ben Grubbs awesome video of the final round of 2012/13 series. Plans are slowly coming together in preparation for next season and we are still overwhelmed by how psyched all you guys are for more Blocfest. So watch this space and watch Bens video.

http://vimeo.com/64482588

Cheers,
The Blocfest Team 

17 March, 2013

Its Only Over For This Season


Well that's it......I am pretty sure the Blocfest team are glad its all over for now :-). On the 26th of July we dropped this poster on the blog.

Way back then we had all these crazy ideas of how we could make the Blocfest series fun for everyone. Little did we know how much hard work it was going to be. But the Blocfest without you would be nothing and with over 500 climbers over our 5 events the turnout has been amazing. You are the reason we did this. We just wanted to put on an event the way it should be done, hopefully we have raised the bar a little and others will follow and show the people out there that get paid to do this that they should be doing it better.

Without all the helpers over the series it would not have been possible. I would especially like to mention Dom from Rock On.

This man has not only sponsored every round but also set with us, reset with us and just been there to pick up a load of loose ends and just do whatever we ask of him. If you ever get a chance to go to one of his shops, DO IT. Not only to say thanks but to support small retailers and independents like him in the world of big multiples. Rock On is how climbing shops should be.

So what of the last event. Well it looks like we saved the best till last.....not sure how but somehow the finals from where i was standing blew me away. We were lucky enough to have our last event at the largest boulder wall in London and one of the largest in the UK. The Biscuit Factory certainly put the effort in to accomodate and support us. Jordan we salute you.

The event kicked off with a great turnout for the juniors yet again. In the Boys the event was a two horse race with the title up for grabs. Sam Roberts and Jim Pope battled it out to the bitter end. The two Castle Climbing team members and good friends have been neck and neck all season but in the end it was another win for Sam at The Arch to take the overall title.

Jim Pope, Cameron McLoughlin, Sam Roberts and some punter celebrate on the podium.
 
In the girls event Becky Whaley was totally dominant with four 1st's and a 2nd. The biscuit saw her back on form after a 2nd at TCA to win by a healthy margin and take the Junior Female title and one of these trophies.






In the afternoon in rolled the the Big boys and girls and with a strong turnout in both we were going to be in for a great comp and an interesting final. Series favourite Jon Partridge crushed the 25 bloc tour with a perfect score. Only just ahead of fellow Team GB member Ben West. Other finalists joining them was the Blocfest final regular Matt Cousins, the big man from the Czech, Ondrej Nevelik, another regular Rob Gajland, dark horse Liam Halsey and the ever bouncy and most psyched man on earth Louis Parkinson. This bumper final started the headaches rolling a little and a quick discussion ensued, did we need to tweak..............................................


 Natalie Tanzer putting in a respectable performance


Heather Ogston-West crushing the pipes.




We decided to take another two ladies into the final to balance up the numbers giving Alice Hafer and Belinda Fuller a chance to shine after all it is always Christmas at a Blocfest event. Heading up the qualifications were Czech team member Karolina Nevelikova in joint 1st place with GB team member Michaela Tracey. In third was Blocfest series leader and ex Team GB Audrey Seguy. Canadian Ariane Forbes and Tiffany Soithongsuk completed a colourful lineup.

When final time arrived the lights were dimmed, spots went on and out came the finalists.



The Womens was always gonna be a stressful affair, with joint 1st leaders we needed a split for the result. It came down to the last go on the last bloc for Carolina to sneak the win over Michaela giving us the split and one of the hottest finals I have ever witnessed. The top three girls topped all three final blocs and we got the 1,2,3 split......it felt like a dream.

Karolina Nevelikova flashing Bloc 1



 Another view of Bloc 1 this time with Audrey Seguy

Going into the mens final the top three were already split but obviously we wanted a clear result on the night rather than have to resort to count back. Bloc 1 was a steady affair with a stern finish whilst grappling with "The Guvornor".



Liam Halsey at the start of Bloc 1

Bloc 2 was what we call "Circus" a simple but committing and spectacular jump leading into a hard to mount triangle and a very hard to deadpoint pocket to finish. This is where Louis Parkinson really shook things up by flashing the bloc, an amazing effort on a hard boulder and with such ease. As for the rest of the men this was a stern test with only Jon Partridge and Ondrej maintaining their clean sheet. Meaning that we had a tie going into the 3rd and final boulder.


Rob Gajland from Boots Bananas nailing the dyno on Bloc 2

Finally onto Bloc 3. This had to be a splitter boulder. Identical running and jump starts for men and women made for an exciting and spectacular finale. Problems like this always rely on confidence and accuracy. Liam pulled out a great flash early on to secure his 2nd place on the podium. 
 
 Liam Halsey taking out Bloc 3 with style
 
Now it was down to Ondrej, a flash would get the win or at least guarantee a tie with Jon Partridge if he flashed it too. Ondrej walked through the ever so small jump (for him) and them came unstuck on the slopers and compression. After a valiant attempt he still managed to top the bloc to secure his 3rd place.


A very happy Ondrej topping Bloc 3

In the end it was all down to JP. A flash would seal it and end Blocfest 2012/13 with style........a confident Jon stepped up, running towards the wall and lift off, a fumble with his right hand meant he didnt get the hold well enough to control the swing. He was off standing on the mat with a shocked look on his face. Now was the time to show your true colours Jon, this attempt is really one with the pressure on. This time the catch was spot on, heel up, compress the ball, poor pinch and jump for glory. The setters went wild. The crowd showed their appreciation of a great final and hopefully a great series. Jon Partridge took the Blocfest 2012/13 title in fantastic style and made our day or possibly year.

There was one final title to be decided today, the vets. Nigel "Mr T" Leeming continued his domination to win the male title and a very happy Mary Ganczakowski the females both walking away with brand news pads from DMM.


Once again a massive thank you to all involved. Climbers, all 538 of you, the volunteers and everyone who helped in any way, DJ's Jamie, Jose and Paul, all the venues, Mile End, Castle, Reading, TCA and The Arch. Series Sponsors Boreal who was at every event with their test range and who provided us with loads of prizes, Holdz for the holds, Rock-on for everything, Mountain Hardwear for some great Bags, Nourish Me Now for helping us recover. The event sponsors Wild Country, Evolve, Beal, La Sportiva and DMM for £1000's of pounds worth of great kit. A big thanks to Ben Grubb for all the filming, hopefully The Arch film will be out soon and thanks also to Christina Baldwin whose photos you can see in this blog.

My last thanks goes to a great team that allowed me to come along for the ride and without whom this would never have happened. Mike, Kornelija and Al............wowzers :-)

See you all for Blocfest 2013/15







07 March, 2013

The Biscuit Factory timings

Hi all please see the poster for Saturdays timings. A couple of extra Blocfest special challenges have been planed also :-)

See you all on Saturday...
Team BF


24 February, 2013

Reading Video by Ben Grubb

Check out this video from Ben Grubb of the Reading Blocfest. Ben is most definitely one of the heroes of our first season working hard to bring you guys such high quality footage. Check out his website and vimeo page and the Reading video right here. http://vimeo.com/60314706

Ben Grubb we salute you.

Cheers,
The Blocfest Team

Ben Grubb
The master - Ben Grubb

21 February, 2013

A Bristol Bash by Gaz

Wowzers these events seem to be coming thick at fast at the moment not long after the Reading round Mike was heading up the team over at the Biscuit for the Best Of British event there. You can check out Ben Grubb and Jim Petersens video here. Blocfest added their usual twist to the event with our regular DJ's Jose Manuel Cantero Romero and Jamie Ashman banging out the tunes.




A few people have been asking for set lists. So if you check out Jose's cloud mixes the majority of his tunes are on there. Joses Mixcloud

A big shout out to The Arch guys and gals who pulled out all the stops to provide the GB team a great comp in which to show off their skills.

With only a 5 day break we found ourselves once again crammed into Mikes van and winging our way over to Bristol......The Climbing Academy to be precise. Sitting amongst a whole van full of Holdz and newly made volumes is not the comfiest mode of transport but needs must especially when my van is in France, and to be honest it is a long walk.
Our host and one of the bosses at TCA, Paul Twomey greeted us with open arms and gallons of coffee and from then on in that was pretty much it. We were left to our own devices, we had the run of one of the best boulder centers in the UK. Our minds were only going to be the limiting factor.


Check out Adam Gasson  for a great set of photos.

Not that that has ever held us back. Very quickly the Bristol event seemed to develop in to a Blocfest Big Air Display. The fantastic photo above of James"The Beastly Squirrel" playing superman in the final might give you an idea of what i am talking about. Combine this with very varied dynos in the qualifier and the Blocfest Big Air Challenge it was a weekend for the bouncy.

These events surprise us each time, how tiring and hard they are to pull together. Lots of work in a very short amount of time and then suddenly on the day all we can do is walk around with smiles on our faces as we see the fun you guys are having on our creations. At the end of the day Blocfest would be nothing without you lot.

Rather than continue to bore you with my thoughts and mumblings this month there have been a few excellent blogs written. So I thought I would just pass them on to you. Enjoy

James Squire aka the  Beastly Squirrel tells his story
GB Team Member Ben West placed an excellent 2nd
Our hosts TCA "Blocfest A great Success"

Obviously I need to say a massive thanks once again to all the climbers, Bristol TCA for hosting the event, all their staff, strong Joe, sponsors La sportiva, Mountain Hardwear, Holdz, Boreal, Rock On, Nourish me now, Craig for the golden Prints by 5 Finger Thing, Blocfest helpers and last but not least Paul Twomey for providing us with the beats on the day, check out Beat Mongrel for more tunes from Paul.

Finally if you want to check out some excellent shots go to Adam Gassons website. Adam a photo journalist took some great shots of the qualifier here and the final here

Some further pics from Gav Symonds, Lisa Farris and Simon Wadsworth also below.







Well done to the winners and we hope you all had fun. See you at The Biscuit 9th of March for the last round lets make it the biggest and best yet.

Cheers,

Gaz and the Blocfest team

13 February, 2013

TCA timings

Hi all,

As we expect TCA Bristol this Sunday to be a really popular event we will keep the timings of the day the same as Reading (see below). This waY we get to keep everyone safe and having fun.

The whole day is shaping up to be awesome with the TCA crew putting in a big effort and all of us are getting over excited to fill the vans with holds and some new volumes and get on the M4.

See you on Sunday...
The Blocfest Team


Timings of the day

10:00 - Pick up attempt sheets and get psyched up with coffee

25 bloc tour start times:

10:30 – 14:30  Junior

13:00 - 17:00  Senior

10:30 - 17:00  Fun challenges

18:00 – 19:00 Senior showcase finals

19:00 onwards - Après events

03 February, 2013

Best of British -Team GB selection showcase



2012 was a very successful year for the British Bouldering Team on the World stage. Shauna Coxsey exploded onto the scene with multiple podiums and a remarkable 3rd place overall standing at the end of a gruelling season. Sauna was not the only Brit to shine, however, with very notable achievements from the likes of Ned Feehally, Stew Watson and Mina Leslie-Wujastyk. In other indoor bouldering competitions including the Climbing Works International Festival (CWIF) David Barrans, Jonathan Partridge, Leah Crane, Diane Merrick amongst others have shown excellent form.

But the World Cup bouldering stage is a fierce battle ground. Demonstrating the endless depth of ability - Austrians, Russians and the French, to name a few, appear regularly in the press for seemingly walking up many of the world’s hardest boulders on a day to day basis!

To make sure Team GB is in full battle mode when the season kicks off in March 2013 Tom Sugden (Team GB Head Coach) and the BMC have to select the best of the best to represent Britain. However only eight team members can be selected to compete - 4 Male and 4 Female climbers!

To help select the Best of British a gladiatorial contest will take place in the capital on Saturday, 9th of February, at the Arch Climbing Wall - The Biscuit Factory.

The event is the first of its kind and is being organised as a FREE showcase day for climbing fans to come along to watch the twenty British Team climbers battle it out over 2 rounds.

Along with the Arch Climbing Wall, Blocfest will be on hand to provide the atmosphere with a massive sound system and live DJ sets. There will be live commentary from the nation’s favourite Essex boy/Aussie – Chris Webb-Parsons! After the finals an after party will commence at the on-sight Vibe Bar.

The event is for British Team climbers only but bring your boots as the Biscuit Factory will be open for climbing through the day with the exception of a few area closures for the event.

The British Bouldering Team is supported by Londsdale, Sherpa Adventure and Five Finger Thing.

David Barrans - photo:Heiko Wilhelm